More info available. You actually put a polarizer in front of the lens and the lights. The polarizer of the lens should so the lines are at 90 degrees of those for the lights.

Wired connection seems to work well too. I normally use wifi but connection is not too well where I am so I sometimes loose connections.

Thomas will be able to tell you more but here is what I know. I'm using the openscan Pi with a Raspberry Pi 3 Model B 1GB and had no problems connecting the 12 MP camera and getting it to work. You have to make sure your Pi has sufficient GPU memory (see the thread in "updates"). Only thing is that photo updates are a tad slow. But that may also be a connection problem here. - You will not be able to use the standard openscan Pi ringlight as the mounting plate for the camera is bigger which will partly block the ringlicht. If you have some experience in electronics it would not be too hard make a ringlight that fits around the lens using the parts you have. I'm experimenting with putting the lights on the cradle next to the platform + an additional ringlight. - I'm using the 16mm as that one is the best of the two offered for small parts. What 's best for you will depend on what you want to photograph I think. - Polarizer. Thomas told me he's using simple polarizing sheet, so I did too. I cut off a bit of sheet can clamped it in a 3D printed adapter. Hope that helps.

You normally put the polarizer in front of the lens of a camera. So I assume that is what's done here too.

I'm using an IR remote like the one you linked to for my Sony A77. I rebuilt it by opening it up and testing which circuits needed to be connected for the remote to fire. Then I took a header, bent down two contacts, 3D printed a holder and connected it to the external connection of my Openscan PI. Works well. And I know I should have cut off the section of the header I'm not using but I can't be bothered right now. Hope this helps. Ming-Hua

Thanks. I was already thinking of that. When all is set I will be scanning master sculpts of miniatures and most epoxy putties are hard to photographs. Especially green stuff. So, I'll be trying talcum powder and I'll experiment with lighting set-ups. I'm designing a system for that right now. I'll report back on that when it all works.

By the way, just in case you are wondering. The picture of the scan is upside down in the menu because I made a more compact version of the scanner and needed to mount the camera upside down not to twist the cable. So that is not an error. :)

I just reinstalled version 2020-02-04 and now it all works. Also the problem with the screen seems to have dissapeared. Thanks again.

Great! And thanks for all your work.

Ok, thanks. That seems to work. Upgrading to the new version for testing now.

Hello thomas, thanks for the quick reply. I tried 2020-02-04 last night with the same results. But I'm not sure if the update was installed correctly. See my question in the updates section "Update 20.20.4 - strange camera window". I'm doing a couple of tests now and will also check through Samba. Will report back later if I have more results.

To add, I've tested on Opera, Chrome and Firefox on a Windows 10 computer.